An outdoor garden pond is the ultimate setting for
fully appreciating the beauty and elegance of
Nishikigoi.

The most favorable setting for koi is a recirculating
system that has excellent filtration, both mechanical
and biological.

Outdoor koi ponds can be constructed with
concrete, fiberglass or even butyl liners.

Koi are hearty and relatively easy to raise. However,
to ensure their health and optimize enjoyment of
their company, enthusiasts need to plan their pond
environment carefully. Not just any pond will do.
Only after the right pond is constructed, or
refurbished, should the selection and acquisition of
Koi begin.

Some Basic Requirements:
Fish Handling Nets
Water Filtration System
Koi Food
Quarantine Tank
Daily Maintenance

Some Things To Avoid:
Overfeeding
Overstocking
Changing the water too often
Cleaning the filter too often  
A Brief Overview of Koi Care
Controlling algae in your Koi pond
Controlling algae in your Koi pond.
Biological filtration turns ammonia into nitrate which
is harmless to fish (unless at extremely high levels)
but the disadvantage of this is that algae love nitrate
and you get an algae bloom. There are two types of
algae problems, green water and blanket weed.
Green water is caused by microscopic algae in the
water, it is not harmful to Koi, actually it is beneficial,
the Koi eat the algae and it enhances their color, but
you can't see them!

Also in summer the algae use oxygen and leave the
fish gasping. There are various ways to get rid of the
algae:algaecidele filter, plants will use the nitrate so
it is not available for the algae; an ultra violet (UV)
filter kills the algae as it passes through; algaecide
chemicals can be used but the problem will just
recur; magnets placed on the filter pipe will disrupt
algae cells internally, killing them or preventing them
reproducing.

Blanket weed is filaments algae and forms long
green strands, it is not really a problem, it uses up
nitrate and stops green water occurring, but it is
unsightly. Vegetable filtration, algaecide and
magnets will all work on blanket weed, but UV
filtration will not as the algae has to pass through the
filter to be killed and blanket weed is attached to the
pond walls.
It is very simple to keep Nishikigoi if you have equipment for filtering and cleaning water. It is
advisable to consult a Koi dealer or specialist as to which type of filter is most suitable for
you.

Filtering the ponds various forms of debris and waste products takes several steps and can
be done so many different ways. The better we incorporate the basic features, the more
likely we are to have success.

When filtering waste from a pond, it is better to Mechanically filter it before continuing onto
the Bio-Filtration. This permits the Bio-filter stage to perform optimally.

Mechanical filtration of a Koi pond.

Most Koi pond filter media have a mechanical function. Settlement chambers allow gravity to
drag the solid waste out of the water by slowing the water flow. Such chambers usually come
first in a filter.

A vortex unit (shown to the left) provides greater settlement, the water moves in a circular
movement allowing solids to gather in the center where they can be removed. In addition to
baffle plates which slow the incoming water, brushes or matting can be used to strain the
water.

Surface debris is removed using skimmers. Since debris settles, using a bottom drain as a
source for intake permits the debris to be removed from the pond to some type of separation
chamber. Screens or baskets in front of pumps are important in keeping pumps from
clogging. They also prevent damage to the pumps impellors.

Biological filtration of a Koi pond.

This relies on specific bacteria to break down toxic waste products to less harmful
substances. There are two stages in the breakdown of ammonia, each stage involving
different types of bacteria. The first stage is the breakdown of ammonia to nitrite by nitrifying
bacteria, most important of which is Nitrosomonas.  The second stage is the conversion of
nitrite to nitrate by Nitrobacter.

Both of these groups of bacteria are aerobic (needing oxygen to live), sediment building up
in the filter will deplete the oxygen levels so it is important to keep sediment to a minimum by
having a settlement chamber first and by cleaning the filter out occasionally (but not using
tap water as the chlorine will kill the bacteria).

A variety of different media are available to put in the filter, materials such as gravel, matting,
hair rollers, foam, and canterbury spar are all suitable as they provide lots of surfaces for
the bacteria to live on.

A biological filter will take weeks or months to mature, cultures of nitrifying bacteria are widely
available and will speed up the process.

Bacteria: There are both Pathogenic (Bad Bacteria) and Non pathogenic (Good Bacteria)
Aerobic (require oxygen) and Anaerobic (absence of oxygen) bacteria. Since pathogenic
(generally anaerobic) bacteria cause disease, it is preferable to introduce and promote
growth of a larger number of non pathogenic aerobic bacteria.

The
bio-filters need to provide adequate media surfaces for bacteria to flourish when
environmental demands increase. Over stocking a pond is a common mistake made by pond
keepers that ends with fish mortality. Most lakes have a smaller ratio of fish to water volume
then the ponds most of us create in our own yards. Since the good bacteria attach to and
grow on the media, flowing water helps wash away decaying bacteria and bring fresh
chemicals. The more media surface, the more good bacteria the filter can support. Bacteria
is abundant throughout the pond in the water and on all pond surfaces. Increasing the
oxygen levels also benefits the ability for bacteria to flourish.

Chemical filtration of a Koi pond.

Activated carbon
removes ammonia and other organic waste products by adsorption, this
means that the waste substances become linked to the surface of the carbon. When the
surface is 'full up' it has to be replaced.

Zeolite removes ammonia and nitrite from the water. A good feature of Zeolite is that it can
be cleaned by soaking in salt water (6g per litter) for 24 hours and then reused.

If a large biological filter is present chemical filtration should not be needed, but it is good to
use while the biological filter is maturing or isn't big enough for the pond.

Sand filter. Some Koi keepers use a sand filter as a final stage to 'polish' the water. The
water is passed under high pressure through sand and comes out very clear, bacterial
activity also takes place in the sand filter. Sand filters are expensive though, and you can't
make one yourself because of the high pressure involved.

Cleaning your Koi pond filter.
Filters need to be cleaned occasionally to remove sediment, take this into account when
building one. Add a bottom drain to each filter chamber so that sediment can be let out, it
makes cleaning much easier. Another thing that makes cleaning easier is to put filter medium
in net bags, not just pour it in all at once, as it can then be more easily removed, one bag at
a time.

One last important thing, never ever put tap water in a mature filter, it will kill all
the bacteria and you will have to let it mature all over again.

Please feel free to contact  Dr Grecos koi and supplies  should you require any guidance
with your project.
Koi Pond Filtration
Pond Care
Dr. Greco's Koi and Supplies
P.O. Box 788
Mount Sinai, N.Y. 11766

Located on Long Island in Suffolk County In the Township of Brookhaven